Remedying Hyperpigmentation

by Skin Script and Millicent Russo 

Hyperpigmentation, a common concern associated with aging, acne, injury, heat, hormones, and inflammation, affects clients of all skin types, tones, ages, and genders. Tackling hyperpigmentation requires a strategic and multifaceted approach, combining targeted pretreatments, professional home care, advanced modalities, and meticulous posttreatment care. Each step in this process operates uniquely, using the right ingredients and treatments at the right time to yield remarkable results. Let's embark on a journey of treating hyperpigmentation and explore the synergistic benefits of mandelic acid, vitamin C, and microneedling. 

 

The Power of Corrective Ingredients 

Mandelic acid and vitamin C are two scientifically proven ingredients wielding significant power in the quest against hyperpigmentation. Mandelic acid, a lipophilic AHA, enhances exfoliation, inhibits tyrosinase, reduces inflammation, and showcases antimicrobial properties. This ingredient gradually improves overall skin tone, making it a gentle and suitable option even for sensitive skin types. On the other hand, vitamin C, a potent, water-soluble antioxidant, inhibits melanin production, prevents the formation of new hyperpigmentation, and shields the skin from environmental damage. This ingredient also stimulates collagen synthesis, enhancing skin texture and firmness. When mandelic acid and vitamin C are combined, a more even and radiant complexion emerges. 

The Magic of Microneedling 

Microneedling is an invaluable advanced modality in the arsenal against hyperpigmentation. Also known as microchanneling, this technique regulates melanogenesis, promotes cellular turnover, amplifies the effects of brightening ingredients like mandelic acid and vitamin C, and kick-starts collagen production. Microneedling is particularly effective in combating postinflammatory, ultraviolet-induced, and hormonally induced hyperpigmentation. With regular sessions, microneedling unveils an even skin tone and bright complexion. The secret lies in the release of growth factors stimulated by microneedling, which in turn revitalizes collagen and elastin production. The procedure is safe, comfortable, and compliant with most state regulations on depth of penetration within the skin. 

A Symphony of Treatments 

Achieving optimal results necessitates a well-orchestrated symphony of treatments. The pretreatment phase focuses on exfoliation, brightening ingredients, and restoring skin health; imagine facials, enzymes, peels, microexfoliation, and microinfusion working in harmony to prepare your client’s skin for the advanced modalities to come. Exfoliation should be performed 2–4 weeks before microneedling to ensure optimal results. Meanwhile, professional home care featuring mandelic acid and vitamin C sets the stage for pretreatment and posttreatment care. After microneedling, adhering to a proper posttreatment routine is paramount. This includes avoiding prolonged sun exposure, embracing professional home care products, and applying broad-spectrum sunscreen daily. Light chemical peels performed two weeks postmicroneedling can yield incredible results in lifting out stubborn pigment. Remember, a series of treatments is the key to unlocking the full potential of your client’s skin transformation 

Transform Your Client’s Skin 

In the quest for radiant skin, the harmonious marriage of effective ingredients that enhance exfoliation, inhibit tyrosinase, and reduce inflammation and the advanced modalities that stimulate collagen production and regulate melanogenesis is of utmost importance. By unraveling the complex mechanisms at play and harnessing the powers of science, you can unlock a comprehensive solution for achieving the balanced and even skin tone your clients have always desired.  

Resources 
Dębowska, R. M. et al. “Evaluation of the Efficacy and Tolerability of Mandelic Acid-Containing Cosmetic Formulations for Acne Skin Care.” Dermatology Review 102 (April 2015): 316–21. termedia.pl/Evaluation-of-the-efficacy-and-tolerability-of-mandelic-acid-containing-cosmetic-formulations-for-acne-skin-care,56,25608,1,1.html. 

Dormael, R. D. “Vitamin C Prevents Ultraviolet-Induced Pigmentation in Healthy Volunteers: Bayesian Meta-Analysis Results from 31 Randomized Controlled Versus Vehicle Clinical Studies.” Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology 12, no. 2 (February 2019): E53–9. Ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6415704. 

Edison, B. L. et al. “18295 Mandelic Acid, a Lipophilic Alpha Hydroxy Acid, Reduces Lipid Production, Enhances Exfoliation and Provides Clinical and Patient Perceivable Benefits to Oily and Photodamaged Skin.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 83, no. 6 (December 2020). jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(20)31574-7/abstract. 

Farris, P. K. “Topical Vitamin C: A Useful Agent for Treating Photoaging and Other Dermatologic Conditions.” Dermatologic Surgery 31, no. S1 (July 2005): 814–8. onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31725.